When I spoke with Chef Gatto, he was working in the test kitchens for Uno, located in Boston, Massachusetts.  It was interesting to learn about the wide variety of food items available.  We focused our conversation on their new menu, which will be launched on May 20th.

TT:  How many new dishes did you add to your spring menu?

CG:  We added six new items.

TT:  Out of these dishes, which is your favorite spring item?

CG:  They’re all favorites in their own way.  Top sirloin is an interesting dish for us.  We’re introducing chimichurri sauce, which we serve with steak that is grilled and sliced.  Our chimichurri sauce is made with an assortment of ingredients, including flat parsley, oregano, cilantro, lemon juice, olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes.

TT:  Tell me about another favorite dish.

CG:  We have a new chicken salad in which we replace the fried chicken with grilled for summer, a lighter dish.

TT:  Is this a regional or national menu?

CG:  Every menu we create is a national menu.

TT:  Is it difficult to create a national menu?

CG:  Our purchasing department is great; with them we are able to get all ingredients to locations throughout the country.

TT:  For how long is this menu available?

CG:  It goes through Labor Day.  These items are limited time offerings of about three months or so.  We see if there are items that are huge successes, then they become permanent menu items.

TT:  What makes your spring menu unique?

CG:  We are unique because of the variety that we offer.  Take a look at the menu; it’s large, especially in casual dining.  We have something for everybody.  Our menu is about balance.  We offer indulgent choices; we also offer delicious and nutritious items.  We give you the option to do that.

First and foremost, food has to taste great; then we make it healthier.  We never put anything on our menu that doesn’t taste great.  Also, we were one of the first (in 2006) to have gluten-free items.  Step out there and be the leader.  We were the first to remove artificial trans-fats in 2005.

I was making a cheese tray the other weekend and was hoping to find camembert at my local market. Unfortunately, they had none. I had extra time, so I went to a different shop and was able to find camembert. However, I may not always have that much shopping time. What would be a suitable replacement for camembert?

Brie. Camembert and Brie are both semi-soft cheeses made from cow’s milk, inoculated with the same penicillium candidum mold, and ripened for the same length of time, four to six weeks. Because US law forbids the sale of cheeses made from unpasteurized (raw) milk unless they are aged longer than sixty days, Bries and Camemberts in this country are all made with pasteurized milk. That’s a shame, because so much of the subtle differences between these cheeses is lost as a result.

As with bread making, cheese making is essentially a simple process. Simple, however, does not mean lacking in complexity. The same few ingredients – milk, starter, a curdling agent, perhaps a mold, and salt – yield astonishingly different results depending on how they are handled. The type of milk, its butterfat content, the time of year, where and what the animal grazed; the type of culture; a mold if one is used; how the curd is cut; the size and shape; whether or not the cheese is pressed, how long, how, and where it is ripened… there are endless variables.

By French law, Brie comes from a specific region in France, as does Camembert. In the US, these cheeses could be from France, any one of a number of different countries, or different states within the US. Some are better than others, though I don’t find any of them as good as the French versions eaten in their native country. I’m speaking of cheeses readily available in grocery stores, not less-readily available artisan cheeses, which can be spectacularly good.

Regardless of which you’re serving, it is important that the cheese be properly ripened. Once a cheese is cut into, the ripening process ceases. Too soon, and you’ll find it has a chalky layer. Too late, and the cheese will be overly liquid and ammoniacal. Years ago I was friendly with the manager of an excellent cheese shop near my home, and he had a customer who claimed a good Brie should be like biting into a baby’s diaper – ugh! Not only did Charlie not sell any cheese remotely resembling said object, we agreed this customer must be totally lacking a sense of smell.

I find most of the soft-ripened cheeses sold in grocery stores are cut too young and therefore unripe. A wedge of Brie or Camembert should have no chalky line in its interior, and should be lightly oozing with golden, buttery goodness. Although either cheese in this country will be missing that taste of “terroir”, the subtle flavor reminiscent of its place of origin, if it’s properly ripe, it will be tasty.

A lot of people think of vegetable cream cheese as the health nut cream cheese.  The cream cheese that only work out aholics eat because if they are going to use cream cheeses they should at least get in a few vegetables.  Sometimes even the outcast of all the cream cheeses.  Well guess what, it’s not!  It is just as delicious as the other cream cheeses, and it is actually healthier.

Here’s the recipe:

1 C of cream cheese

5 baby carrots

3 chives

3 scallions

freshly cracked sea salt

fresh cracked pepper

Put cream cheese in a bowl and stir until softened.  Take the carrots and chop them into small cubes.  Cut length wise twice and then cut width wise in small half centimeterish cuts.  Mince all of the scallions and chives into pieces about as long as the carrots pieces.  Stir well.  Add freshly cracked sea salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste.  If available, use fresh cracked pink peppercorns as well.  Spread on a toasted bagel and enjoy.

Interesting fact: pink peppercorns are not actually peppers, like black pepper is.  Pink peppercorns are actually a dried berry harvested in may from Brazil.  They are also known as “baies roses”.  They are quite satisfying with their sweet, fruity tang and their spicy flourish after each bite.

Wings Hill provides Chris and Tracey the ability to serve hearty, homestyle breakfasts to their guests and fine dining to those who make reservations.  With a dining area that seats sixteen, a reservation is a must.  Reviewing their menu, a call for a reservation and a drive to Belgrade Lakes will be worthy of your time.

I spoke with Chris to learn more.

TT:  How many new items have you added to your menu?

CA:  It’s a menu that changes weekly, but we keep the same number of items.  Our menu is based on the season.  Right now there are lots of fresh morels, ramps, fiddleheads.

TT:  What is your favorite item on the current menu?

CA:  I love the fiddleheads.  I have not been anywhere else in the country that they consume fiddleheads.  Just a quick blanch and shock, then sauté with garlic and season with black pepper and salt.  They’re also good with bacon and vinegar.

TT:  Are you able to source many of these ingredients locally?

CA:  Yes, I have a couple that works as foragers.  I also do some foraging, looking for morels.  In the summer I also forage for chanterelles and black trumpets in the summer. 

TT:  Did I see correctly that you make your own maple syrup?

CA:  We have a couple of trees that we tap and make our own.  We also purchase maple syrup locally because we can’t produce enough.  We end up getting about eighty gallons of sap, which makes two gallons of syrup.

TT:  How long are your current items available for?

CA:  It usually is about two to three weeks of each.  Fiddleheads are simultaneous with ramps and are about done.  Morels have not come in yet.  They’ll be ready in about a week or so.

TT:  What makes your spring menu unique?

CA:  Beyond the facts that we use so much local and do a weekly change of the menu, it is the style of cuisine that I cook.  It is based on classic French.  I also have a huge amount of Asian and Southwest influence.  It is a melting pot of American cuisine.  It’s a bit of fusion, but it isn’t foofoo.  Items, such as morels and foie gras, that people don’t get to see everywhere are available here.

Celebrating their 140th season this year, this resort knows how to make a grand impression on their guests and diners.  With a prime location and access to many fresh ingredients, dining here is a feast for the senses.  We spoke with Executive Chef Daniel Crook to learn more about the menu that he has created for the 2012 season.

TT:  How many new dishes have you added to your menu this season?

CD:  We have added several new dishes to the menu this season. I am particularly excited about the lobster tasting dinner that was designed in celebration of our 140th anniversary. Priced at $140 for two people, the tasting features Maine’s signature seafood in lobster bisque, lobster spring roll, mini lobster quesadilla, lobster citrus risotto and grilled lobster tail. This meal is served with a bottle of sparkling wine.

TT:  Out of these dishes which is your favorite new menu item and why?

CD:  One of my favorite new items is the bamboo lemon grass and ginger steamed halibut with kaffir lime essence cilantro pesto and edamame shiitake mushroom relish. This flavorful and healthy dish was developed as a complement to our spa offerings. It combines exotic flavors with simple culinary techniques to create an elegant entrée.

TT:  Are any of the ingredients in this dish locally sourced?

CD:  We use all local ingredients. Many of the fresh vegetables and herbs will be harvested from our own organic garden. The halibut is sourced from several southern Maine fisheries and delivered to the resort fresh each morning. Fresh, local ingredients are an important part of the dining experience. They are essential for superb flavor, and when you’re this close to prime fishing waters, you want to showcase fresh local seafood.

TT:  Do you change your menu every year?

CD:  Yes, we are always looking for new ingredients to use in our eclectic cuisine, and we change the menu to feature our favorite finds. Though our featured entrées are typically changed each season, our dessert menu changes biweekly to allow us to use seasonal ingredients.

TT:  Are there any menu items that you never would remove?

CD:  The blueberry halibut with a blueberry gastrique is a staple at The Cliff House. It is a signature dish and a favorite entrée of resort owner Kathryn Weare.

TT:  What do you think makes your menu unique?

CD:  I spent much of my career in Hawaii, and there is a Pacific Rim cuisine influence throughout our menu. We use kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, curries and shisho leaves to name a few ingredients.

Photo credit:  Paul Avis, Avis Studio

Today’s Best B&B Bites recipe would be an excellent choice.  Provided by Maple Leaf Inn Bed and Breakfast in Barnard, Vermont, this dessert provides a nice balance of sweetness and acidity.  Complement that with the combination of a crisp crust and creamy filling, and you have a tart that will wow your senses.

Key Lime Tart

2 oz. cream cheese, softened
1 Tb. grated lime zest
1 can sweetened condensed milk
1 large egg yolk
½ cup key lime juice

1 graham cracker crust, baked for 7 minutes

Stir cream cheese, lime zest and a pinch of salt with rubber spatula until mixed together. Add sweetened condensed milk and whisk vigorously until there are no lumps of cream cheese. Whisk in egg yolk. Then add lime juice and whisk gently until incorporated. Mixture will thicken slightly.

Pour into cooled crust and bake at 325 degrees until edges are beginning to pull away slightly from sides, 15-20 minutes. Cool till room temperature and cover with foil and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

I was able to speak with chef and co-owner, Lydia Shire, to learn more about the spring menu that she is offering at Scampo. With a bounty of fresh ingredients at her disposal, it is sure to excite your palate.

TT:  How many new dishes have you added to your spring menu?

CS:  We have added 24 new “for spring only” dishes to this year’s Spring Menu at Scampo.

TT:  Out of these dishes which is your favorite spring menu item?

CS:  This is a tough choice! Of course, we always look to have soft shell crab in the spring. Our new dish is Crisped Soft Shell Crab with White Almond Romesco, Radishes & Bitter Orange. Then, there is asparagus. I love the Grilled Jumbo Asparagus with Rocket Salsa Verde. My absolute favorite, on a more personal level, is the new chicken wing dish that I am doing: the Primo Chicken Wings with Vietnamese Crisp and Bruleed Japanese Yam Sformato.  I am only using the two front sections of the wing without the drumstick. This part of the wing with the two bones encloses the most tender and succulent piece in the entire bird. Also, the skin on that part is particularly delicate and crisps beautifully. We use Vietnamese fish sauce in the marinade. I talked my meat purveyor into selling me just that part of the wing.

TT:  Are any of the ingredients in this dish locally sourced?

CS:  Massachusetts grows wonderful asparagus in Hadley, MA.  Soft shell crabs are from the Chesapeake Bay, Maryland, and are fantastic. We look to Maine for their poultry farms. Most of the fish on our menu is caught locally: haddock, lobsters, fluke, swordfish, clams and oysters.

TT:  Being located in Boston, is it more challenging to plan a spring menu, as it can be a cold season in New England?

CS:  I believe that’s an “old wives tale.” You have to keep in mind that our true growing season does not get fully started until May-ish, so we rely on excellent purveyors from all over the country to ship foods in. I don’t think that there is anything wrong with that. I remember going to Delta Airlines late in the evening to pick up my “real” Kentucky Bibb Lettuce, grown by the Korfage brothers in Louisville, Kentucky. It had been picked just that morning! Pretty darn fresh if you ask me.  So no, I don’t see any different challenges in our location in the country. Look at how close we are to George’s Bank for fishing!

TT:  For how long will these spring items be available?

CS:  We will change our menu to summer dishes towards the end of June.  That in itself is actually a bit of a problem because true local summer tomatoes don’t get started until mid to late August.  Local corn is the same way. So, once again, we will need to rely on some “imports” until our own is fresh.  Mmm, I cannot wait to bite into a ripe local peach!

TT:  What makes your spring menu unique?

CS:  To me, spring marks the beginning of the year food wise. This is the time when greens awaken. We have fresh peas and soft shell crabs. I will not serve asparagus at Christmastime; I wait until the spring to partake.  I have always changed my menus with the season. At Scampo and Towne Stove + Spirits, we have no fear of fat or correctly seasoned food.  Our approach is having bold, memorable foods with REAL FLAVOR. I believe in generous portions and dishes that withstand the test of time. I loved adding a classic Lobster Stew, which I did at Locke Ober’s for 10 years (with extra sherry). This time, I put a puff pastry lid on top of the soup, homemade with white truffle butter in the pastry…YUM.  We watch it puff and get buttery crisp in the oven.  I believe each and every menu we write is memorable; hopefully others will think that as well!

Photo credit:  Eric Levin of Elevin Studios

Now, shockingly, BWW has the best nachos I have ever tasted from a restaurant.  Whenever go there I always get the Ultimate Nachos. (They traditionally come with chili, but I order them without.)  They come as a pile of tortilla chips adorned with cheese sauce, jalapeño slices, shredded lettuce, and pico de gallo.  The jalapenos I usually end up taking off, and the pico de gallo I normally ask for on the side because it is kind of acidic, but it still tastes yummy.  The  cheese sauce is delightfully cheesy and has the perfect amount of saltiness.  The chips taste freshly made and aren’t too salty, and the lettuce is very fresh and crisp.  But, you should probably be aware that the serving is huge!  I have never, ever, finished a whole entire one by myself. I went there on Saturday and finished the most I ever have, given my mother did help a little…but even with her help we didn’t finish all of it.

Now, before I let you go, I want to talk about a slightly touchy topic.  Wings: bone or no bone?  Everyone in my family prefers without the bone, but the family behind us all got with bone.  One of them tried to order without bone and got yelled at.  My family likes it without bone because they are much neater, you can stab it with a fork and pop it right in your mouth.  When you have bone in you normally don’t even get all the meat.  And it is much messier.  Feel free to comment and voice your opinions, I would like to hear them.

At the helm of this restaurant is Executive Chef Christopher Eagle.  As the chef of this fine dining restaurant, he delivers a menu that is sure to please discerning palates.  When dining here, one will enjoy both the food and the elegant location.  We were able to speak with Chef Eagle to learn more about their spring menu.

TT:  How many new dishes are on the menu?

CE:  We have added 12 new items on the spring menu for Peacock Alley.   The dishes were created with the hotel guests in mind, as well as those dining with us for business and as a local neighborhood favorite.  We have created a menu that is light, flavorful, fresh and quick to make.

TT:  Out of the new dishes, which is your favorite?

CE:  Of the new menu items, the Curry Crusted Diver Scallops with Cauliflower Mousseline, English Peas and Morel Mushrooms is my favorite.   The dish is very light considering all the ingredients.  Each of the components is very flavorful and complements each other. I like the combination of the scallops and the curry powder; the sweetness of the scallops contrasted by the spiciness of the curry powder.

TT:  Are any of the ingredients locally sourced?

CE:  Yes, we always buy local when possible. For example, we purchase local farm raised eggs (which are on the Nicoise salad), micro greens and salad greens are from Blue Moon Farms in Pennsylvania, smoked salmon is from the Catskills and beets are grown in New York State.

TT:  How will you be incorporating the, ramps, fiddlehead ferns and morels in the new menu?

CE:  The morels are used in the scallop dish; the ramps are implemented in another dish- the Filet of Beef with Olive Oil smashed Fingerling Potato and Seasonal Mushrooms.  Other seasonal ingredients are utilized in the daily specials we serve.

TT:  How long will these be available?

CE:  This menu will run until late June or early July. We change the menu at least four times a year, highlighting seasonal ingredients that are at their peak flavor.

TT:  What makes your spring menu unique?

CE:  The way I approach food.  I like to let the natural flavors of a product come out by cooking and seasoning it properly and adding flavors that complement the ingredient. I don’t like to mask a product, I let the natural flavor speak for itself.

At the helm of this restaurant is Chef Benoit Rovan.  Entering this restaurant your are transported from New York City to the countryside of France.  This spring Chef Benoit has created special journeys to different regions of France.  Currently, the menu is featuring dishes from Bourgogne and Champagne.

TT:  How many new dishes have you added to your menu for Bourgogne & Champagne?

CB:  As for every region we offer two appetizers, two main and one dessert.  This month we are visiting Bourgogne area and Champagne. For appetizers we prepared:

• a champagne salad with dressing served with brie croutons, duo of pears, and lardons.
• Escargots. Escargots (snail) are a staple of Burgundy cuisine. We are cooking ours not in the traditional way, but with a spring twist. Escargots with green peas on a bed of pesto.

For main courses :

• boeuf bourguignon, served traditionally with mashed potatoes
• truite bourguignone, it’s a burgundy style trout (poached in red wine with pearl onions and mirepoix.

For dessert :

• a Baba, normally made with rhum that for the occasion we substitute with champagne rosé, and berries compote.

TT:  Out of these dishes which is your favorite menu item?

CB:  My favorite would be the escargots, since it’s very spring-like in the way we do them, which is very far from the traditional way of cooking.

TT:  Are any of the ingredients in this dish locally sourced?

CB:  For this dish in particular, not really, but Sue Perette is committed to sourcing local and environment-friendly products. We source most of our produce from the local produce market, all of our meats comes from the butcher down the street, coffees from d’Amico, fish from the local fish store, etc. So even more than being local we also work closely with our neighborhood businesses. It’s not always possible to have everything locally produced, but as another example of our commitment to a responsible economy, we do not carry sparkling water or still water from abroad.

TT:  Do you offer wine pairings that coordinate with this menu?

CB:  We do not offer a wine paring for every dish, although as a common rule in France it’s better to drink a wine from the same area as your meal. We do carry some Burgundy wine for our customers to choose. Our wine list is changing all the time, and we like also to discover other varieties or vintages to choose from. As long as the wine is good and to your liking, there is no problem to pair it with any food.

TT:  What makes your spring menu unique?

CB:  Our spring menu is unique because we change it according to market and also because for spring we are going to visit three regions of France! Plus at Sue Perette, you’ll find something for everybody, from a typical bistro or countryside dish to a more “adventurous” dish.

TT:  I love the name of your restaurant and the reasons that it is such.  Do you have many customers that don’t know what “Sue Perette” is?

CB:  Most of our regular customers know, of course. But many new guests are asking about the name because it makes them wonder who is Sue Perette? And then we tell them and it’s another reason to like our restaurant!